Nascent micro brand Haldor, based in Slovenia but whose watches are designed in Germany and then made in Switzerland, are into diving watches with substantial water resistance for their price. Last year, Haldor released a hulking 45.5mm wide diving-oriented tool watch, the Abissi, which we reviewed in depth here. More recently, Haldor announced their sophomore model, the Haldor Armis 2000m, a somewhat smaller Swiss automatic diver’s watch built with durability, dependability, and tactical operator style in mind.
As always, Swiss Richard Mille has something totally insane to show off on the first day of SIHH. This year it's the RM 53-01 created in partnership with Argentinian polo player Pablo Mac Donough. The watch immediately looks like a classic Mille creation, with the tonneau case in Carbon TPT, the visible spline screws, and the futuristic-looking openworked movement taking center stage. This movement happens to feature a large tourbillon at six o'clock and to be suspended from the sides of the case by a system of steel cables and pulleys.
My absolute favorite watches are pretty-looking sport models. There is a significant volume of these watches around, but really attractive ones are hard to find. Probably the biggest challenge in making a beautiful-looking sports blancpain bathyscaphe chronograph watch is to first make sure it is a great utility watch, and only then ensuring it is visually attractive. Doing both is no simple task, but success can yield the reward of a watch being a true classic.
This year was rumored to be the year that Jaeger LeCoultre brought a new sports watch to market – one that would join the growing ranks of the modern “luxury sport” category, and (we hoped) would bring a fresh rival to the likes of Piaget, Girard Perregaux, Audemars Piguet, and even Patek Philippe competing in that space. And they have – sorta.
Last March I was very intrigued by the marketing images of this new Roger Dubuis Easy Diver SED Tourbillon watch with its intense level of skeletonization, in carbon fiber, that looked like tree branches. If you look closely, you can tell that the movement is barley even there. The biggest parts are the one minute flying tourbillon and the mainspring. Surprisingly, the manually wound Roger Dubuis caliber RD 02 SQ3 movement has a 60 hour power reserve (movement bears the Seal of Geneva).